Hubby and some of the guys surfed today. Swells were three to five feet on the South shore. Why paddle? They each paid $5 to get out past the wave breaks by boat. They drop off where you request and come get you at your specified time. Drop off 1:30, pick up 3:15. Here is the kicker. Hubby rode in a wave so far and so long that he really had to work to get back out to the guys, no boat this time. He ditched riding his board back out to the guys when the wave sets got somewhat high and the board became a hindrance, and he swam through the waves. Since he was purposely leashed, he came home with a slight chest bruise. Still he had a great time with the guys.His surf board might as well be made out of gold. I probably could buy a year's worth of diapers with this thing.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
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